Gary Rhodes interview

This article was first published in the London Newspaper Group in 1993.

Guardian of our Gravy

Gary Rhodes is a remarkable chef. Not only does he prepare and cook some of London's most satisfying restaurant food, but some of his best-selling dishes are not French or Italian, but home grown classics.
LUCY HODGES discovered that his crusade is now gathering steam.

Faggots and fishcakes may not be everybody’s idea of culinary excellence. But Gary Rhodes’ are supreme. Good enough, in fact, for him to swear that his future rests on them.

At first glance, this 33-year-old chef with his mane of punk-style spiky hair seems an unlikely figure to be leading a revival in traditional British cooking. But Rhodes, master chef at The Greenhouse in Mayfair, is as passionate about the future of treacle pudding and custard as he is about his beloved Manchester United winning the FA cup. As he explained:

“Whenever you mention British cooking, people immediately think of over-done roast beef and soggy Yorkshire pudding. Chefs in this country need to do as I and John Major say and go Back to Basics by re-evaluating classic dishes. Although a lot of restaurants have been trying to do this for years they have mostly failed because they have not paid any attention to detail. For instance, I serve baked beans and bangers but the difference is they're homemade, even the beans are braised.”

Rhodes’ single-handed crusade to redefine British cooking and refine the English palate began at an early age. Born in South London in 1960, young Rhodes grew up in Kent with his sister Cheryl and his mother. By 13, Rhodes was already turning out dishes that were to become the hallmarks of his trademark upside-down puddings and steamed sponges to feed himself and his sister while his mother was out at work.

After studying at Thanet College, Rhodes worked in Amsterdam and London where he established himself as highly competent, but not stunningly impressive newcomer. His critical break came in 1987 when he took up position at the Castle Hotel in Taunton and began to serve up near-forgotten dishes such as braised oxtails and apple fritters.

“Like any other chef working up through the ranks, I had dabbled with nouvelle cuisine which looked sensational on the plate but completely lacked flavour. Every night I would be constantly dreaming up new recipes for the next day when suddenly I decided this quest for the new had to stop. Now I’m serving up liver and bacon with onion gravy, beef stew with dumplings and even knickerbocker glory, all of which look and taste great.”

Food critics who once dismissed Rhodes unashamedly traditionalist approach as merely a return to school dinners-style stodge are now coming back for second helpings.

But Rhodes, never one for resting on his laurels, is ironically about to go full circle by spreading his culinary message to the masses, the original source of his recipes, now superceded by the burger generation.

Rhodes eventually aims to export his ideas to France where he hopes the humble British banger will rub shoulders with the French saussison. In the meantime, he is taking part in the BBC's Good Food Show in Olympia next month along with fellow master chefs Albert Roux, Alastair Little and Antony Worrall Thompson. Mr Rhodes says he will use the show to eschew the more sophisticated techniques of his trade in favour of a return to the great British values of simplicity, honesty and value for money.

“Whenever I do these sort of shows, I use produce that is widely available such as chicken, liver and tuna which can be turned into simple yet effective dishes. I want to be able to prove to people that recipes such as chicken liver pâté are far cheaper and more delicious when homemade.”

Having set his roots firmly in English soil, Mr Rhodes’ public appearance at Olympia will be followed with a BBC TV series in May. Following in the wake of other chef-turned celebrities, such as Sophie Grigson and Keith Floyd, Rhodes will be touring around Britain and preparing dishes inspired by the different locations. One of the highlights of the series, says Rhodes, was to prepare a breakfast fry-up for his heroes – Manchester United.

“I must have done something right,” he laughed “Bryan Robson and Alex Ferguson have been back to The Greenhouse for more!”